Blocking with Milliner Filipa Cardoso
In this What is… series, we asked makers to unpack one key term, material or technique that’s central to their craft. We caught up with Filipa Cardoso — a hat maker (or milliner) who received QEST funding in 2022 to train through an apprenticeship with Sarah Marshall at the iconic John Boyd Hats — to find out more about the art of blocking.
Can you introduce yourself and your craft practice?
My name is Filipa Cardoso, and I am a UK-based milliner. I design and handcraft bespoke hats and headpieces, combining traditional techniques with contemporary design. My work explores the sculptural side of millinery, and I often take inspiration from nature, vintage fashion, and fine art to create unique, wearable pieces.
What is the term, material, or technique you’re defining?
I’m defining blocking, which is a key technique in millinery.
Blocking is the process of shaping a hat by stretching and forming materials — like felt or straw — over a wooden block (a mould). The material is usually steamed or dampened to make it pliable, then pinned or secured tightly over the block. Once dry, the hat holds the shape and can be trimmed and finished.
How is it used in craft, and what makes it important?
Blocking is at the heart of millinery — it gives structure and shape to a hat. It’s also where creativity really takes flight, allowing a milliner to experiment with silhouettes, curves, and forms. Without blocking, many of the elegant or dramatic hat shapes you see simply wouldn’t be possible.
Are there different types or variations?
Yes — there are countless variations depending on the style of hat. Crown blocks, brim blocks, and sculptural blocks each offer different possibilities, and some milliners even carve their own. There are also freeform blocking techniques, where you create a shape by hand without using a traditional mould.
Can you share an example of one of your projects that use it?
One of my favourite pieces was a bespoke boater hat made from layered sinamay to perfectly match the client’s outfit. I blocked both the crown and the brim separately using traditional wooden blocks, carefully shaping and layering the sinamay to create a crisp, structured finish. To complete the design, I added an asymmetrical bow for a contemporary twist. The result was a refined and elegant piece that felt completely unique to the wearer.
Visit Filipa’s website.
